Hi Tom,

Besides the expensive "marine" paints there are a number of paints that are compatible with epoxy - spend some time reading the fine print on the labels and contact the vendors directly.

The automotive paint section is a good place to look. Primers can be used as an intermediate layer in-between the epoxy and the final paint giving you the option to use a paint that may not be directly compatible with epoxy.

The marine paints are better, no doubt - and more durable in most situations. But a rock is going to scratch through the $45 per liter paint the same as the $8 stuff.

In the end, the difference in cost between the marine paint and the general use paint may not be an issue relative to the cost/time invested in building the kayak.

For a "Sunday best" boat I use the expensive paint and worry about scratches. For my knock-about fishing boats the cheap stuff works fine and I don't care if it gets fish slime on it [actually, fish slime is good - and more is better ;-) ].

I like to let the epoxy get a full cure before painting. I don't hesitate to use the kayak before painting but I try to keep it out of the sun as much as possible. After a couple of weeks I sand the boat wipe it down with alcohol and paint it the same day.

I have often wondered it would be better to let the sanded surface "oxidize" for a week before painting or if the "sand and paint right away" approach is better.

I paint "right away" because, when gluing a freshly cut/sanded un-oxidized wood surface you get a better bond. I don't know if this applies to painting an epoxy surface but I go with the assumption that it does. Maybe somebody can comment.

Talking about assumptions - I wouldn't assume that you could skip a good surface cleaning/preperation just becaues a "non-blushing' hardner is used. Just a thought.

Hope this helps.

Hank