: Nicks book calls for 6 layers of 6 oz fiberglass all the way around the hatch
: lip. Just want to confirm this is the correct layup. Seems like a lot of
: glass. Has anyone used less with acceptable results? Jerry

Jerry, I just finished this step and I used 5 layers of 6 oz. glass and one of carbon fiber.

I did my lips using Vaclav's method, it works great! After cutting the hatch, duct tape it back in place on the deck outside. On the inside, stick down clear vinyl contact paper (shelf paper). The contact paper will allow you to see the cut line of the hatch. Along this line lay a strip of neoprene self stick weatherstrip about 3/16" thick following the hatch opening cut line. Make a ramp-fillet along each side of this weatherstrip with thickened epoxy so the glass wont have to make right angle bends. Lay 6-7 layers of bias strips about 10"x3" all the way around the on top of the tape with about 2" over the deck and about 1/2" over the hatch. Lay a sheet of soft plastic on the fresh epoxy-glass and cover with a gallon of moist sand. The sand helps remove the air bubbles and press the layers together. When hard, peel the hatch lip off the contact paper (very easy to do) and remove the contact paper. Dig out the weatherstrip from the channel with a wood chisel. Use scribe type dividers to mark a the inside and outside cuts of the excess cloth. If the epoxy is still in the green stage, cut off excess with tin snips (aviation), if very hard, cut with jig saw. The lip is now epoxied in place. Place a new thicker weatherstrip back in the perfectly recessed groove and you now have a flush deck with a excellent water seal.

Larry C.