You can wipe the area with mineral spirits to get a good idea of what the epoxy will look like when it's applied. Then you can decide if more sanding is necessary. Hopefully none.

Ross

: After planing my kayak that I have made out of eastern white cedar, I used a
: fairing board (60 grit) to knock the rough spots off the strips. I then
: used a oscillating hand sander (80 grit) to remove all the scratches that
: the fairing board had left. I then mixed up some dooky smutz using Raka
: epoxy (no blush), flour, cabosil and a touch of pine flour to fill in the
: gaps and staple marks. Everything went great to this point.

: I then took my hand sander mentioned above equipped with 80 grit paper and
: removed all the excess dooky smutz from the areas I had filled in. I then
: used 100 grit to take out the 80 grit's scratches. Here's where my problem
: may be? Where the resin soaked deep into the wood around where I used the
: dooky smutz, there is still a definite transition line in the colour of
: the wood (ie. the resin soaked wood is a darker shade than the raw wood).
: I was careful to sand down the dooky smutz to get to the resin soaked
: wood, but the transition line remains. My question: will the transition
: lines show through once I put the glass and epoxy on? (ie. do I need to
: sand away all the resin soaked wood so that the entire kayak is raw wood
: once again?} THanks!