On my last lay up I used Raka 606 to prime the wood on a Friday night, early Saturday morning I used a cabinet scraper to remove the hard fuzz that raised and immediately applied the glass cloth with Raka 606. At noon the same day I applied a fill coat useing 610. Then again the same day applied fill coats using 610 late afternoon and late evening. All that in 24 hours.

It is best to apply coats as soon as possible to get cross linking bonds between coats. The only time you should not is if a blush (a waxey smear on the surface) appears (Raka does not seem to blush much), if you have to correct an error by sanding, or you just don't have the time to keep applying coats. If you allow the epoxy to cure more than 24 hours you should wash and sand to get a mechanical bond between coats.

I feel it is really best not to sand on top of glass until the fill coats are applied to avoid sanding into the fabric. Some people like to sand between fill coats to keep them smoooother, watch closely if you do. I like to do all the sanding after the fill coats and add additional coats if I'm starting to touch the glass and still have lows to fill. I feel it is safer and definetly faster.

Blushes need to be removed with solvent wipes (alcolhol or lacquer thinner), soap and water, or ammonia and water.

Sanding dust seems to stick to the epoxy also requiring a wash before varnish.

Hand sand with a fairing board or ROS sand the epoxy dry. Sand the varnish wet by hand. You can't see when you're touching the glass when it is wet, and varnish clogs sand paper when its dry.

Spidey was right in past posts the best finish is achieved sanding the epoxy (and the naked wood) with a fairing board by hand. Its time vs. quality.

Hope this helps. Keep 8-) and using the BB Dave