: Yes, maybe you can do that as a theoretical matter, but I made two panels as
: spec'd in the plans: The foredeck and rear deck, then joined them as they
: were attached to the hull. I also agree that you'll be wanting to glass
: the underside of the deck.

: "Just like"? Nope, not a chance! The individual strips will be at
: least partially 'glued' to its neighbor, and remember that the INSIDE, or
: concave, surface is glassed. What will happen as you bend is that the
: epoxy between the strips, being locally stronger than the wood, will not
: flex, while the wood strips have to take all the bending. Well, on my
: project, they wouldn't; the strips started cracking and splitting almost
: immediately, even on the more gently curved rear deck. I found I had to
: run a utility knife down every stinking joint, scoring the epoxy enough
: that it would split enough to get some curvature. Then, before glassing
: the deck, I had to re-fill those resulting gaps.

: One reason that it goes on in two pieces is that an already-joined, flat
: panel with the big cockpit hole in the middle would be very floppy and
: fragile. Another is that it wouldn't really be flat; the differing
: curvatures of the front and rear decks also means different arc lengths.
: In actual construction, this difference is made up by twisting the narrow
: ends enough to mate.

: Nope, if you do it with thin enough strips (I used 3/16" x 1.5")
: you can get pretty fair lines.

: Good luck; I wish you well... .

Ditto Pete

You recovered well from those problems. Looks " Perfect " from where I am viewing it. You did a great job of matching the deck and coaming. Can you," up close and personal," see where you filled the little score marks? It surely doesn't show in the picture. Good lookin' Yak.

Rehd