Thanks Bill, Greg, and Andrew,

Your replies have helped ease some of the growing anxiety that I have been experiencing regarding this step in the building process (first time builders jitters, I guess).

Andrew, I read the article that you wrote for the NSW Sea Kayaker Magazine. It is very informative and very well written. I really like the way you have refrained from showing any pictures of the cutwater and skeg in Part 1 of the article. The pictures in the next issue that show these aspects of the kayak will make for a large "wow factor" I would think. Please be sure and post a link when you have Part 2 complete, I'm looking forward to reading it.

I am really impressed with the look of the modified cockpit design that you have used. I too have not cut out the cockpit because I had visions of doing something similar to what you have done. How much larger did you cut the cockpit opening than what is shown on the plans in order to make the style of cockpit that you did? How did you determine the shape of the additional panels that you made for this style of cockpit?

Sorry about all the long winded questions. My wife has been calling the kayak "the obsession" maybe she has a point. I wonder what she'll call the next one I have planned?

Have a great day!!! Thanks again.

Ken

: Ken, I'm glad to hear that someone else has a Shearwater Baidarka in
: progress.

: Two of us are now at the varnishing stage on this design. We deviated from
: Eric's instructions markedly.

: We both have bulkhead footrests, so our final plywood bulkheads are in custom
: positions, relative to the construction 'bulkhead' forms which were in
: MDF. I also have a third (day-hatch) bulkhead and a Nairn (similar to
: Beckson) pry-out 8" day-hatch, just behind the cockpit.

: With the Baidarka, the contortions in the hull really require you to stitch
: (or strap) the deck in place while the hull fillets cure. If you don't,
: then you will end up having to significantly trim both the deck and hull
: to get them to fit. The temporary bulkheads cannot define the spread of
: the sheer near the bow and stern without the deck in place and no amount
: of force will work after the fillets are set.

: We decided to attach deck and hull with sheer clamps, thickened epoxy and
: filament tape. We have no stitch holes at the sheer. Once the sheer clamps
: are set in place, you can jam spreaders (we used 1" by 2"
: radiata pine cut to length) in between the sheer clamps. This allows the
: deck to just sit on the sheer clamps without needing much clamping force.
: We chamfered the deck and hull, so that the sheer clamp, deck and hull fit
: together very closely. It makes a neat and hopefully strong joint.

: I believe that you shouldn't cut the hatches out until you have glassed the
: deck both sides (we used 4 ounce cloth both sides, not tape). This way,
: your hatches will retain the same shape as the deck. Both my friend and I
: have had to work out methods to contort the finished hatch covers back to
: fit the profile of the deck, because we cut the hatches out too early. She
: used carefully shaped plywood webs and I have regained the deck shape by
: glassing the hatches back to the deck and cutting them out again! Ugh,
: what a mess!

: We didn't cut cockpits until after the decks were on, but before the outside
: layer of glass. I put in an insert (similar to the prototype Baidarka) so
: that I could drop the overall height of the coaming nearly 2" and
: have a standard whitewater keyhole cockpit shape and fit. My friend cut
: hers to a smaller sized "ocean cockpit" size (her Baidarka is a
: 6% reduction of the standard, with a modified bow - 16'6" by
: 19.75" to suit her 100 lb size).

: Sorry Ken, but with this complex design there is no "easy way". The
: up-side is that it's a fantastic design and should be an excellent rough
: water performer.

: There is a brief article and some photos at the website below.

: Feel free to ask any questions.

: Andrew