Using two-part epoxies for glueing the strips sounds like a make-work project to me. You'll spend as much time mixing epoxy and refilling syringes as you will spend putting on strips. Why not use a glue that will not weaken in water? Lee Valley sells a formaldehyde-based marine glue that is actually a powder. I get it locally, and have been using it now for almost 5 years. I mix it in a plastic water bottle - put in one part glue powder and one part cold water, shake it until the lumps disappear (about 15 to 20 seconds) add a second part glue powder, and shake it for an additional 30 seconds or until there are no more lumps. Then I pour off half of it into a plastic ketchup bottle (the 99 cent ones from Wal-Mart). Pot life is a little better than an hour. Once the strips are glued and fastened, the stuff sets in about an hour, full cure in about 8 hours. I have yet to see a failure with a snug glue joint - with my bead and cove test panels, the wood fails before the glue does. Once full cure is reached, the glue is impervious to water. A 5 pound box of the stuff is under $30.00, and will make enough glue for me to build 2 16-foot canoes. As long as your bead and cove joints are firmly seated, the glue line is almost imperceptible - the glue is a light tan color.

Don