: You need to follow a pattern the same way on each boat and each coat. Look at
: the job as a complete kayak that needs spraying and not a coaming, a
: foredeck, a hatch rim, a hull, etc. Picture the whole job in your mind and
: you will not miss spots.

: Get down close to and at an angle to the surface as you spray and you will
: easily see the difference between the coat you are spraying now and the
: previous coat even if they are only being sprayed 5 minutes apart.

With good light you can see the difference, but it is easier if the prior coat is not glossy. Since the sanding also gets rid of dust picks and reduces other blemishes it is still a good idea. I would build up several coats with minimal or no sanding, then do a fine sanding before the final coat(s).

: Yes, it is like laquer, it is thermal plastic and will reflow with a solvent.
: This property means it has poor resistance to chemical spills such as
: gasoline or campstove fuel.

: I have heard that this is a problem with airless sprayers but have never used
: one. Have you tried applying the material a little thicker without adding
: thinner? This allows the material to flow out for a longer period after
: being applied.

My Wagner is an HVLP not an airless sprayer. I know Wagner is best known for their airless sprayers, but they also make some relatively inexpensive HVLP models as well.

It is my experience that thinning the varnish gives it more time to flow, not the other way around. It probably depends on the thinner you use.