Mick,

You are partly right on both accounts.

The construction has a more recent history than "traditional" kayaks, it only dates back to 1923. But then we should call it a Skene, because that is who came up with the design. It has a tradition, a lot of Walruses (Walrii?) were built back in the 20's. The Skene shape is taken from one of the kayaks in Adney and Chappelle's "Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America". Is is not an Inuit kayak, but it came from studying them. It has a place in history, just a different place then the Inuit kayaks. On my latest version of it I am almost back to the dimensions of the kayak in Chappelle's drawings. Following the book will give you a good chance to exercise your decision making skills, because there all so many things left up to the builder. I have gone far beyond the choices in the book on my latest version.

As for size, the kayak can be made so that isn't a problem. The total max width of all the wood at the toes is 1-1/2" (3/8" * 4), but the min width could be as low as 3/4", depending on where the top of the trusses meet the sheer. My trusses contact the chine in the toe area, giving me that extra foot room. I have also modified the floor in the cockpit area to get me much closer to the skin, and help lower my center of gravity. I felt the need to do this because I have narrowed the beam to 20.5" and lowered the deck to 6" at the back of the cockpit. In my much smaller version, my size 10 feet are quite comfortable.

Oh, by the way, my Snow-Roof over canvas (the idea you poo-pood last year ) has been working fine for the past year or so, it scratches much less easily than my stitch and glue kayak.

Just a minor rant ,
Mike

P.S. How come you weren't at R2K???, and when will we see your surfyak?

: A few people here have already mentioned it in passing, but to emphasize the
: point, don't make Putz kayak if you wish to use it as an example of a
: traditional kayak or for space. It uses a completely different structural
: approach from traditional kayaks in both the frame(western or european)
: and the skin. It just looks like a skin kayak. Absolutely no good for your
: history class but ok for woodworking or chem. if you use any for the skin
: coating.

: And a less important reason (but NOT for your size 12 feet), is that the Putz
: kayak(s?) are extremely inefficient in terms of interior space. An
: overlapped builtup truss is used as the structure on each side w/ the over
: laps continuous down the length of the yak. This overlap makes the yak one
: thickness of wood thinner, on EAch side right at the toes, than a
: tradional(1 1/2 inch overall). And the large depth of the keel sections
: overlapped by a floor deck even further reduces foot room.

: So for general knowledge and experience, doesn't matter what you choose. For
: space only, stitch and glue(ply) is best. But a traditional with laminated
: front cockpit beam(masik) and carefully placed foot location rib and deck
: is best for the expansive cultural historic connections and next best for
: footspace.

: -mick