: I have used a technique very similar to Mick's idea for sizing bulkheads -
: this photo shows how to size your bulkheads using a station: 1. Choose a
: station that is smaller than the bulkhead and screw an L-bracket or
: 24" piece of 2x4 to it - this is simply to free up your hands and
: allows the station to stand upright by itself inside the kayak. As you can
: see, you needn't be concerned about whether or not the station is level.

: 2. Place the station at your bulkhead location and hot-glue scrap pointers to
: it about every 1.5" or so. Be sure to glue a pointer at the deck/hull
: joint.

: 3. Remove the station, lay it on your bulkhead material, (foam, ply, or
: stripped panel) connect the dots, and then cut it out - piece of cake!

: Joe Greenley
: Redfish Kayaks

Joe, Joe, Joe,

Don't tell me those are holes for interior string lines!

Oh, no! Pretty soon you'll be using an int.!!!!!!

(and maybe wedges too for quick alignment?)

-mick

p.s. for others - External templates can be as easily made. Set up the yak on blocks(blocks not right at station to be taken).Tear or make a larger 'C' shape of card and quick staple to side of a sawhorse(as it's vertical) so overlaps the yak. Hot or white glue (almost as quick for card) pointy ends of thin card pces to the yak. Only do half of the section or you'll go more anal later trying to figure which side is best and takes half the time. If taking multiples and using card, just keep stapling card station on top of previous card station esp when taking the middle forms. Hot glue a string line from the stern to the bow or to any vertical offset and touch a pointer to this too(for ea station to get the rocker. Always mark which is the sheer. Helps for double checking.

If your eye is good, another way is to use a compass or Lee Valley log off set tool. Set it at say 3 or 4 in. Have 'C'shape set at max 2 1/2 or better less(maybe 2 'L' shapes sliding on top of ea other) in clear. And run the compass or tool around the section. Do it a couple of times wobbling the tool/compass back and forth radially so you get the max 3in or 4in offset. Later, draw a profile using the OUTERmost marks you made on the C template. Like unless you have concave sections, you can't go wrong. If you do come across a concave section, go slowly and make one line making sure the compass/tool is perpendicular to the tangent right where the tool is scraping ( or mark where the concavity starts and connect the outermost marks - wont go wrong here either therefore) (I think you can make lots of little errors and yet still come out ok w/ the stripping).

Later at night, make the real templates by just drawing a 3in offset from the larger outline. If you just wobble the compass/too back and forth at any pt, and connect only the inner marks, I think you cannot go wrong here either.

sounds good on paper (paper?)

-mick