Rehd,

If I repaired the old paddle, it would be a backup for when I go out with other people and need an extra paddle. I am currently building it's replacement, and I am also building a storm/spare paddle at the same time.

The storm paddle will have an Alaskan Yellow Cedar (2x2*) shaft with Western Red Cedar (1x2*) blades laminated to it. The shaft part seems to be the weak area. Should I use a stronger wood for the blades too? I have some extra sitka spruce, mahogany, oak, and greenish/purplish birch just laying around the basement/shop. I'm not too concerned about weight on my storm paddle, I want it to be VERY strong, I'm not concerned about dings, just breaking resistance. My storm paddle will spend most of it's life on my rear deck, waiting for an emergency situation.

The standard paddle will be all Western Red Cedar (2x2 shaft and 1x2 blades*). This will be my ultralight cruising paddle, for going fast all day. I will try to keep more of a center ridge on my new paddles, but thin the blade edges a little more. I want to keep the weight around what Whetstone paddles are, I guess around 26 oz.

*2x2 and 1x2 are not final dimensions, I start out by epoxying 2x2's and 1x2's together to form the paddle blank.

You can't really tell that there is oil on the old paddle, but I know it is there and it did soak in. It was put on last about 3 months before the paddle cracked.

Mike

: Hey Mike

: Sounds like you'd have a tough time with all that oil in the wood. If the
: cracks are fresh, done after the oil, then why not try shooting some epoxy
: into the cracks? Possibly your oil coating hasn't gotten all the way down
: into that area. If you don't trust that paddle enough to keep it as your
: primary, I would certainly think twice about useing it as a back up. I
: would want a guaranteed back up in case of dire conditions that may cause
: you to break or lose your #1. Besides, there is probably something you
: wanted to do to improve it a little more, and nows the time. Go for the
: new paddle.

: Rehd