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Perfect Surface Sealing, Perfectly
By:mike allen --->
Date: 11/6/2000, 3:07 pm
In Response To: Re: repair of old gunning boat (Dan Lindberg)

: Eric,

: You might want to ask the question to the folks at either the Woodenboat BB
: or the WCHA BB (if you haven't already).

: With W/C canoes, and probably all wood boats, putting on a layer of
: glass/epoxy generally is viewed as the "kiss of death" to the
: boat, causing the wood to prematurely rot and mechanical damage as the
: wood expands and contracts. If this is actually a rare boat, you might not
: want to do it.

: Dan

Hi Eric,

I would follow Dan's advice and go over to those other forums for some direction here. I have no particular knowledge here, but have a few thoughts about what may go on.

The strip built and ply built yaks that we all build here not a good example to
extrapolate from to other constructions. The almost unbelievably virtually nonexistent finish/water damage problems evidenced by the few postings here are not typical to other boats where this is a significant issue.

The difference is because our yaks are almost of a homogenous material, of only(bulkheads, sheerclamps exepted) 2 huge monolithic surfaces and spend 98% of the time out of water. And we can readily inspect these surfaces as we finish and use them. And to stop water infiltration thru these surfaces, we need perfectly good application, with perfectly good finish, on a perfectly good surface, good conditions, and perfectly applied everywhere. It is so cool that this is done by us all and is a testament to the great building process.

However, this cannot(or lets say without big weight downsides) be done on a typical boat or canoe with cross ribs. Probably can seal the outside, but how can one get a varnish of any type to seal between the ribs and hull, and noway to not fail and crack and open with the differential expansion between the two or especially if there is slight racking. So now water gets in. And because the outside is sealed 100% and the inside say 98%, it stays in there and capillarizes and vaporizes elsewhere and brings a anaerobic spore and grows and discolours and lifts off the coat somewhere else and doesn't stop because what's to stop it from going and going?

But I don't know what the best answer is. Maybe do it, but extreme limited use and pull it out of the water into covered storage mostly like our yaks. Or seal the outside but use a vapour permeable but water resistant 'sealant' over the inside. I do not know, but would love to hear what is the best procedure. Like the skin frame yaks use the linseed oil approach and expect wetting - but much easier to dry out as small frame.

anyway, some thoughts

-mick

Messages In This Thread

repair of old gunning boat
Eric Schade (Shearwater Boats) -- 11/6/2000, 11:06 am
Re: repair of old gunning boat *Pic*
Eric Schade (Shearwater Boats) -- 11/8/2000, 11:16 am
Re: repair of old gunning boat
mike allen ---> -- 11/14/2000, 11:58 am
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 11/13/2000, 11:03 am
more pics
Eric Schade (Shearwater Boats) -- 11/8/2000, 3:34 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
bob -- 11/7/2000, 10:29 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Don Lueder -- 11/7/2000, 3:47 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Paul G. Jacobson -- 11/7/2000, 12:22 am
Re: repair of old gunning boat *Pic*
Hans Friedel -- 11/6/2000, 5:34 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
David Hanson -- 11/6/2000, 4:11 pm
Re: Gunning Boat - Refinish *Pic*
Joe Greenley -- 11/6/2000, 2:38 pm
Posting Pictures?
David Hanson -- 11/6/2000, 2:58 pm
Re: Posting Pictures?
Joe Greenley -- 11/6/2000, 8:49 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Dan Lindberg -- 11/6/2000, 1:33 pm
Perfect Surface Sealing, Perfectly
mike allen ---> -- 11/6/2000, 3:07 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Shawn Baker -- 11/6/2000, 12:50 pm
Re: repair of old gunning boat
Mark Woodhead -- 11/6/2000, 11:22 am