Hi Eric -- Here is my 2 cents worth about glueing with epoxy. It is text taken directly from my web site page, and represents some of my actual experience.

"In using epoxy for the joints, bear in mind that once epoxy resin and hardener is mixed, it begins to cure and will continue to cure no matter where it is. We can take advantage of this property. If the mixed epoxy, without the thixotropic agent (colloidal silica, wood flour, etc.) added, is first spread on both surfaces of the joint and allowed to soak into the wood, that epoxy will ultimately form the bond not only in the space between the two pieces, but across the depth into which it has soaked. The procedure becomes: 1.) Mix some resin and hardener only. A slow curing type is preferred to allow sufficient time for soak in before excessive curing inhibits it. 2.) Spread the mixture on both pieces to be joined and let it soak in. If it all soaks in, add more. 3.) Thicken the remaining mixture with the additive of choice. 4.) Wipe off any excess soaking epoxy and glue the joint with the thickened mixture. Apply only enough clamp pressure to hold the alignment and still get some squeeze out. Applying too much clamp pressure will force the mixture out and starve the joint, possibly leading to later failure.

Some woods take epoxy better than others, depending on how well it soaks into the raw wood. Cedar absorbs epoxy very well; ash does not. I have had ash joints fail using epoxy due to the inherent hardness of the wood and its reluctance to absorb epoxy. The open pores in the grain, which can be relatively quite large, are apparently insufficient for optimum joinery because
they are few and scattered. When using epoxy as a glue for hardwoods, it is best to rough up the gluing surface with some coarse sandpaper to open as many pores as possible."

Hope this helps. - John