Hi All

As requested, here are the adjustments I use when I'm checking a saw out. I'm not familiar with ALL saws out there, but, this should be a guideline as to how to proceed with your repair or adjustments.

Arbor Alignment:

1) Pick one tooth on the blade and mark it with chalk or something easy to see.
2) Turn the blade so that that tooth is down level with the back of the table.
3) Measure the distance from the tooth to the edge of the left mitre slot.
4) Rotate the blade (tooth) around to the front of the table.
5) Measure the distance from the tooth to the edge of the left mitre slot.
6) Rotate the blade (tooth) up to the top of it's arc. Measure this distance.

All distances should be the same. If not, the arbor is out of square. It can be adjusted from underneath where you will find 3 or 4 bolts that hold it down, and an adjustment screw. Well, that's on the old saws, and they may be different now. You will see the adjustment when you get under there, or it will be in the manual. Just tweek that until you are square, or as close as you can get it with your tape. Once that is square, you can adjust everything else.

Fence Alignment:

1) Move the fence over to a spot to the right of the blade, around two or three inches away. Lock it down.
2) Measure from the front corner of the left miter slot to the fence and write that down.
3) Measure from the back corner of the left miter slot to the fence and write that down.

Those measurements should be the same. If not you need to correct them accordingly. Usually, there is a set screw or two, and maybe screws, on the fence up near the "T" part where you can adjust it. That needs to be square or you will be undercutting the material either at the front or back of the cut. It will look beveled, even though your blade is striaght up and down. When that is straight, you are all square as far as the table and fence are concerned.

Blade Alignment:

Now, you have to learn not to trust the needles that show your tilt angle. They are easily bumped and bent. So, if you are not sure, use a square that you know is "square" and run the blade all the way up till it binds, and then back it off a half turn. Using your square, set it up against the blade and flat on the table. Check the angle of the blade. Now, here's the trick: Not all blades are the same thickness all the way from the arbor hole to the teeth. What you need to do is eyeball the gap, then put the square on the other side and see if it's the same. ( narrow gap at the top on one side and wide on the other means you aren't square ) Be sure you aren't touching any teeth. Measure in between the teeth. Also, don't let your square rest on the throat plate as it may flex downward. Adjust the blade with the wheel and when it is square adjust the needle to match the 0 mark.

Now, everything is tightened, RIGHT?? O.K. now, you can adjust the fence to around an inch or so and take some scrap and make a short cut, just enough to show on top of the piece. Then, you take your tape and check out how you did. That will check the fence tape if it has one. It will also tell you if your blade is square ( up and down ). A more accurate way to tell if your blade is square, and one I suggest everyone use once in a while: Take a short peice of scrap, but longer than the blade, and run it through the whole cut. Then, turn one piece over and ( on top of the table ) put the cut edges back together. Look on the end and you should not see any gap. Any gap at top or bottom will tell you which way your blade is leaning. I forgot to tell you, keep the "fence" side of the material just like you ran it through, and turn the other over. That way, you can remember which is correct. When you get a square cut there, you're all set. You have a perfect set-up.

"Zero-Clearance" Throat Plate:

The way I make them is to take a scrap of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, good side up, and trace a pattern from your stock throat plate. Cut it out on either a band saw or jigsaw to within 1/16" of the line. Sand down to the line, checking the fit every now and then. When you have a good snug fit that you are satisfied with then you have to make it fit down into the slot. This is where the router comes in. I suggest a router table, but, I didn't use one. You measure how wide the lip is in the throat cavity and then how deep. That is what you have to leave on the plate. The rest musy be taken out as a rabbet. Your measurement will be different from others. If you have a router table, you can adjust the fence to the measurement you get for the lip plus maybe a 1/16" more. Then set the depth to take out all the excess material. Then you can run the plate, good side up, on the router table. That should give you the proper cut.

If you don't have a table, but, do have a router, You can use a cutter with a bearing and freehand it. But, you must clamp the router down and use two hands on the plate or lose it in a kickback. I don't have clamps, so I sit on the floor and hold the router between my legs, and ...........well, You get the idea. It's not a safe practice and I don't recommend it. A router table is MUCH cheaper than Jewel repair. I now have a router table, but, didn't then. I have also C-clamped a little fence on my router and done stuff that way, but it's still nice if you can clamp it to a bench or something. You can even cut a whole in a piece of plywood, place the plywood on your sawhorses and bolt the router up to it from the bottom.

The width of the cut underneath is really not critical, as the top rim is what holds it in place firmly. But, the depth IS critical as it has to be smooth and level with the top of the table saw.

If you don't have a router, then you can do most of the cutting on the table saw. You will be cutting out close to the fence, so You may want to make an auxiliary fence. That is, either screw a piece of straight pine or plywood to the fence using the holes they usually provide for that purpose. If they didn't, just make a box that will fit over the fence. Then you can cut all the way up to and even into the auxilliary fence and not damage the real one.

Assuming that you have gotten that far, now you have to make the slot for the blade. And what better way to do that than run the blade up through it. Yep! I run the blade all the way down, set the plate in the throat and It should fit right down in. You have two choices now.
Clamp a piece of 1/2" or better yet, 3/4" plywood over the table and throat plate.
Keep everything, especially your hands, away from the center of the table and blade area.
Turn on the saw and slowly run the blade up through the plate. It will complain and maybe smoke a little as the plywood gets hot, but, with a good sharp blade it will not be a problem. You can stop once in a while and let it cool.
When you know it's up through the plate a little turn it off and lower the blade a little.
Take the plywood off and then run your fence over near the cut. Not over it, but around a half inch or so away. Tighten it down and repeat the cut. You can come all the way up, but, since you are only cutting 3/4" stock and 1/4" stock for now, just run it up enough to clear that. Then the opening will be as small as you can possibly make it.
You are done !!

Read it all over once or twice and do it in your mind before ever doing any of it for real. Just so you know there's no confusion. If there's something you don't understand, or aren't sure you want to tackle, just email me and we'll see what else we can do. I hoped this has all made some sense and is doable for you. You'll be much happier with a saw that is set up properly and works to the best of it's ability.

Most of all, BE CAREFUL!! Good Luck

Larry "Rehd" Brown ( rehdbrown@worldnet.att.net )