: Tom,

: When drawing on the paddle blank I recommend that you layout the blades about
: the same as Chuck Holst recommends for a standard cruising paddle. As you
: have discovered, the paddle is short but it is slid in the hands to such
: an extent that the leverage can easily be greater than for a cruising
: paddle. The sliding technique prevents the pushing blade from extending
: past the body to catch the wind. It is commonly used with a near vertical
: stroke with your torso tucked well forward to reduce the effects of strong
: headwinds.

: You may wish to make the blades slightly thicker in cross section than you
: might choose for a cruising paddle. Optionally, you might also want to
: make it slightly wider, but not wider than you can comfortably grip. These
: paddles tend to be fairly stout and stiff, assuming that you wish to use
: them in demanding storm or surf conditions, or as a spare. Pick a solid
: piece of wood with good grain. I use cedar for cruising paddles but prefer
: Douglas Fir for a storm paddle.

: Regarding paddle shoulders, I find a distinct shoulder to greatly aid the
: sliding stroke, not inhibit it. The shoulders provide a valuable reference
: point to help keep your hands from wandering.

thanks for the info,

I usually laminate my paddles using old douglas fir 2x4 stock that I reclaimed from my parents house. It is plenty stiff i agree. my first paddle was a chuck holst style blade out of a cedar 2x4 but found it too heavy. I laminated another cedar/ fir paddle that is lighter and I use that as a primary now. I have just started to experiment with the sliding stroke and can see how the shoulder would help in stead of hinder. Is it necessary to make the storm from a single piece if done right a laminated paddle should be stiffer/lighter? If of course the bonds were up too snuff.

thanks again

tom