: The double line on the c/l of the yak presupposes strong bulkheads below
: each(like a bulkhead for the dayhatch and one just behind for the main
: hatch w/ the fittings being close to inline and the fitting separation max
: the paddle width). But this is potentially a very weak area of the yak. If
: there is any chance that the racking could compromise the hatch rim or the
: bulkhead below, don't use middle fittings. The ones near the side will be
: way less problematical. The more I think about it, the more I'd approach a
: central fitting w/ care.

: If that is the case, then I'd try to make the cockpit side bukhead in 2 or
: sevaral parts and follow the cockpit rim and put the dayhatch in the
: little triangle just behind ea hip. aNd assuning 2 or 3 lines abovea ea
: sheer, I'd connect all the c/l w/ a triangular pc of hard( it must be
: stiff ) plastic say 4in wide by 4 long, maybe the bottom would be the 2
: cylinder analogs(make it one pc) and then bungee or wide webbing or narrow
: netting in between the 2 sets of parallel lines. The idea being that you
: just shove the blade under the first set and ram it across and the
: lines/web/net hard plastic end guides the blade under the far side. The
: c/l line location and the offset dayhatch don't coincide so no
: interference.

: The idea is not to crack the bulkhead seal just as you need it most.

: -mick

: ps another idea is to make these 2 little cylinders sliding and far apart but
: with one line below when you shove the paddle thru, then cinch the
: cylinders over one way or the other to trap the shaft.

The opposing cylinders can be improved on in 2 ways. 1) Instead of separating them by the shaft width, choose the width of a greenland paddle so both(if using 2 on ea side) lines will more readily hold one of these as well as going over a euro. 2) Slice sideways radially say 1/3 way along ea cylinder so there are many many radial slices sort like the tread slices in a higher end winter tire for snow grip. These may act line many many little sideways jammers sideways on the blade holding it more in place to minimize the racking.

And then assuming the line layout (an 'H'- with the H sides above the sheer or along the o/s of the yak), what about the paddle leash dan be used to both hold in place and lock centrally. A yr or 2 ago in a Sea Kayaker art. abt paddle floats, it was just used to hold the paddle from floating away when float deployed. But w/ the c/l cross of the H , the leash can be passed under it to lock the shaft centrally under the dble lines. Jamming possibilities for the leash line can range from the outer 1/3 of the cylinders being cut like multi jam cleats, or one free (recessed) jam cleat ea side, to additional leash loop pull thru near the shaft, or cyl jam on the leash, or just hold on etc etc.

some possibilities I'll be considering.

-mick