Believe it or not, I used a Stanley Trim Plane in many of the concave areas. The plane is about 3" long, an inch wide and an inch tall. Found it at Lowes (6 bucks). Works for me, but I've got small hands.

: Not really, but I have a couple of questions. All the stripping is complete
: on my Guillemot (first time builder) and it is ready for fairing.

: 1. Given my less than perfect first time workmanship, using the rolling bevel
: method, and variation in the thickness of the strips, there are some
: ridges to level between strips. I’m not too concerned about the flat or
: convex areas where a plane then hand sanding with a longboard should work
: fine, but would like some ideas on what works well for initial fairing in
: concave areas. I tried a rounded spokeshave on some scraps with less than
: satisfactory results, although I really don’t know how to use the tool
: yet. Should I round the bottom of a blockplane as Nick suggests in his
: book? Has anyone on the board tried this and if so did you mutilate a good
: quality plane or just a cheapy? How about other tools such as an ROS,
: paint scraper, or belt sander?

: 2. I have done some decorative stripping on the deck with walnut and pine,
: which runs diagonally to the main cedar stripping (similar to Ben
: Staley’s). I would like to know what method of fairing has worked for
: others on areas like this due to the strips running in different
: directions and varying hardness. I think a plane would make a mess. Would
: hand sanding with a longboard be the best method for this?
: Thanks, Richard