Just finished putting on the seal coat and thought I would write a few observations from my point of view, because so many
people have shared so much here.

It was in the event an "easy" job. But it really was a good thing that I did as Rob suggests in his instructions to practice on the
small bulkheads first. It is hard to over estimate how much even this little experienced helped me prepare my work area and my
attitude. I elected to use "clear coat" by systems three for this coat and wetting out the cloth (more of this below) and because it
was in conveniently small 1 quart bottles I elected to mix it in a measured cup (checked the markings were correct at the
bottom margin) about 5 oz at a time. I did start with the roller and foam brush method and this is a good way no doubt. But I
find two things happening, first is the different types and grains of wood take up the epoxy unevenly because the more porous,
looser grained wood soaks up more. This causes a "starved" spot in this (these) area(s) (noticed this on the practice panels), I
"think" it is best to go back to these areas and add a coat of epoxy so as to maintain a "film" of epoxy "over" the wood. This
does not make the surface uneven (in fact it seems to have the opposite effect). So because of this fact like to go over the boat
until it cures and the foam brush is not suitable for this to my thinking. Which brings me to the second "happening" because
"clear coat" is so thin and has what seems to be a fairly extended "set time" it just seems to "sag" (I didn't have any problem
with runs really, probably because I followed Rob's (and others) advise to not put too much on in the first place by using the
roller. This "sagging" was another reason why I found it made me happier to be able to go over the seal coat over and over.
First to coat and re-coat the "starved" areas and then to remove the "saggs" as the continually formed due I think to the thinness
of the product. I did not really add that much with my "re-coating" because I was careful of that and just added enough as the
wood in that particular strip needed to "soak up". As I found the foam brush was not good for this (going over the surface
repeatedly till it was not "sagging" anymore) I used a $5 2" Chinese white bristle brush. THe bristles are epoxied in place and I
only lost one half of one bristle on the whole job. This brushing allowed me to work the epoxy as I thought I needed to be
happy and it left a nice finish. I will not have to sand this layer and I am very happy with the result. By the way I used
approximately 16 oz of epoxy on this coat, could anyone say if this is high or low amount and does it way about the same as
the fluid oz or is it heavier than that on the boat itself ?

I did sand the boat lightly once more with 100 grit as Rob has said is best information advised and I think it was for the best
too. Also I think I would not use "clear coat" next time. It is almost too thin and seems to sag and sag. Rob's method of using
the regular resin for the whole thing is something I would like to try next time. It sounds like the way to go especially in light of
the fact that even when one uses and gets the "look" advantage of "clear coat" it is only going to be coated with regular resin in
the end anyway so the "look" of the final boat will in any case reflect the "look" of the regular resin. Any way that is all I "think" I
know and just wanted to try to give something back to this place and other amateurs like myself. And I'm real glad to have got
to this stage with out screwing up more ...