: Oil is easy. It's also useless in a water environment. Unless you want to
: re-oil after every use. Water will still rise the grain and absorb into
: the wood.

This is curious, as it certainly does not reflect my findings. I'm interested in how you applied the oil.

I use linseed oil on my Greenland paddles, and have not had these problems. Prior to applying the oil for the first time, I wet the paddle, allow the grain to rise, sand and repeat, until the grain behaves. For the first application of "oil", I use equal parts gum turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and optionally, spar varnish (as a sealer) and let dry. Afterwards, I apply a coat of gum turpentine/oil in equal proportions, susequent coats use less and less turpentine until only oil is used. For each daily coat I allow the oil to soak in for ten or fifteen minutes and then wipe it off (dispose of rags carefully). If the oil dries, it will form a "crinkle" finish.

I use a rag or steel wool and apply the oil once a day for the first week, once a week for the first month and then as needed. It takes only a few minutes per application, and I enjoy it. Once the oil cures, I oil once every few months or whenever the paddle gets superficial scratches. Once treated I have had no trouble with the oil washing out, the paddle absorbing water or the grain raising. Some folks worry about the weight of all that oil yet my favorite homemade cedar paddle, that I recently took to Greenland, weighs 31 ounces.

There was an interesting discussion on the baidarka list about oil finishes. One interesting (but unsubstantiated) idea posted was that linseed oil was good because it is *not* waterproof. It prevents the water from damaging the wood, slows water penetration, yet lets the wood breathe and dry. Water does not get trapped behind the finish, leading to decay, the Achilles heel of many paddle finishes. Many builders on the baidarka list finish their kayak frames with linseed oil. I have experimented with Watco oil and it works well too.

When you read about oil finishes, keep in mind that much of the literature concerns furniture, not paddles. There is a big difference between a finish designed to prevent a water spot or ring from ruining fine furniture in the dining room versus a paddle that is immersed entirely and then dries after use.

As another viable option, some makers of solid Greenland paddles apply no finish at all. The Greenlanders rarely apply a finish and even in hot and humid Florida, paddle builder George Ellis goes this route and hasn't reported any problems.

Greg Stamer
Orlando, Florida