Hi Greg;

Linseed oil has always amazed me, in that it seems more like lacquer, rather than an oil - That is, it leaves non-water-soluble solids behind when it eventually dries - which it will do.

My understanding of protective wet-applied coatings (paint, etc.) is that there are but three types - Enamels (cured by airborn CO2), Lacquers (solids dissolved in a solvent), and 2-part coatings (cured by a chemical reaction between the two parts). All present coatings fit these categories, as I understand it. I always thought "true" oil coatings consisted of non-drying (within the time-frame of application and use) that simply wicked into the pores of the wood and offered protection by a simple displacement of water, as exemplified by rubbing mineral oil onto the swimmer's ladder on a boat. The stuff NEVER hardens, and requires frequent re-treatment.

Consequently, I'd probably classify linseed oil as a lacquer, not an oil. Varnish fits this category also. In the late 19th and early 20th century, the fine German firearm armorers selected linseed oil as the finish of choice for the stocks of many revered pistols and rifles, such as the famed 1898 Mauser. Those stocks were eminently waterproof, and survived a full cenury of abuse while surviving marvelously. The finish is very similar to a varnish, albeit somewhat softer.

I constructed a roll-around butcher block kitchen island, which I finished in FDA approved boiled linseed oil (fit for human consumption ), and after 5 years the solids continue to build in thickness - I used the same schedule of application that you properly recommend.

All in all, I think it may be the case that we have to define our terms, as not all "oils" are created equal - Or are, technically, not oils at all . . .

I enjoy your posts, you bring great knowledge to this forum.

Best Regards, Spidey