: I built from the book instead of the plans, but I'm guessing there should be
: no difference. The top of Forms .5, 1, 16 and 16.5 define the shape of the
: deck, which is not peaked at the stems. Therefore the top of the stem form
: need not be bevelled. To get a feel for how the bevel rolls, install it
: together with the rest of the forms on the strongback, line 'em up and
: screw 'em down, and then take a fairing batten (a scrap strip 5' long
: works fine), bend it around the forms at various elevations, and see how
: it relates to the end where the bevel will be. Check this at various
: elevations from the sheer all the way to the keel, and don't force it. Pay
: attention to what it is telling you, don't make it conform to what you
: think the right angle might be. That angle rolls from very acute at the
: end to fairly flat at the keel. If you have access to
: "Kayakcraft" there is a good discussion of this method with
: illustrations. Ted Moores recommends bevelling only a couple inches ahead
: of your stripping; I used that method on my Redfish with no surprises.
: Marking the centerline and the edges of the flats before you start planing
: will keep you on the straight and narrow. Have at 'em.
Thanks pete. I have the book and the plans. I also have teds book, I think i'm on the right track but a little more reading is never a bad thing is it. It is strange trying to determine exactly what a form is doing until you have stripped something. My canoe seemed very different at the stems. But I think i'm just trying too hard to see the finished product instead of just letting the wood "happen" I finally did see one pic in the book of an interior stem. It does stop at the sheer line. Which makes sense as the forms .5 and 1 are relatively flat as to warrant no need for a taper. I always appreciate people that take the time to write their suggestions and experiences. Thank you, Elliott