: here's some ideas

: 1/when using the dremel, get the router attachmt. It's not great, but will
: allow the tool to be both guided and depth controlled. I used the dremel
: router attachmt extensively in other areas and it's adequate.

: 2/just because you're doing bead and cove doesn't make it a total rule, so
: why not just lightly trim the bead flatter(say half way) in this area and
: butt joint there only.

: 3/files or chisel gouges on the narrow edge of strips could be assisted by
: some sort of edge guide other than skilled fingers for us bozos. so for a
: rough toothed file(chain saw file is too fine) or 1/8"plus diam dowel
: wrapped w/ 100 or less grit, take two 2in long wood strips - place them on
: top of each other w/ a slightl thiner strip in between(or by eye'd be ok)
: and duct tape across the face and one side with the other side open.
: You're sorta making a file sandwich with the sandpaper dowel or file as
: the meat. squeeze the strips and the file/dowel is locked. rub back and
: forth for the cove and the file/dowel is guided.

: 4/i'm pretty butterfingers, so probably would do the similar for a gouge, but
: use 2 small strips glued toghether w/ one of them being cove. just hold
: cove against the back of the chisel.

: 5/ if the strip is not glued down yet, what about just clamping the file or
: papered dowel on the flat work bench and just rubbing the strip back and
: forth against it. the flat bench is therefore the edge guide. that's
: probably the simplest no brainer way.

: 6/hey maybe same thing for the chisel too- strip clamped near edge of flat
: bench, run chisel shaft tightish along edge thereby guiding cutting edge,
: could angle it w/ control too!!

: -mick

combine 5 and 6

7/clamp the strip near the edge of the bench and run the round file or dowel back and forth against the bench and strip. most of the force is horiz so bench is only scratched(some 1/8in ply of cardbd if thats and issue) and the file is automatically guided for the cove. - nobrainer #2 - prob the best.