Andy,

Just follow all the advice you find here and you should be all right. Of course some of is contradictory. I'd start good infeed and outfeed tables and without the long fence and see if you have any problems with controlling the stock. If so you may want to try the long fence.

As for trueing the saw you don't need a dial guage. When I set up my saw I use the miter slot as a reference. Measure the side of the fence to be sure it's an equal measure from the slot at the front and rear of the table. Then run a nice square block into the blade about 1-1/2" and withdraw it. Shut things down and flip the block over and see if it will slide over the back of the blade without a gap at the fence or binding. If it does, great! If not, rotate the blade to see if the gap changes. If it does the blade has wobble and should be replaced. If not, the spindle trunnion or carriage needs to be adjusted. Check your saw manual to see how this is done.

Lastly, my cat has first dibbs on the saw dust.

Mike
: Do you plane your stock before stripping?

Most of these defects which you wouldn't want in wood for solid furniture will not present problems in your strips. As someone mentioned here, the board is going to change shape as it is cut as stresses are relieved. Hopefully, you stock is true enough that it will not twist or bind so badly as to be hazardous to cut.

A finger inventory will be made when you guys get done with this job!
Good Luck
Geo. C.