Don,

Sounds great except that you are doing it before me. I think you are on the right track. You may want to put some guide strips in parallel to the forms as you are stripping. This should keep them all together over the 29" between forms.

Careful in adding rocker. I'd try to balance the added rocker fore and aft. It has a little bit of rocker towards the bow in the plans and none at the stern. If it were me, I'd add the same amount to both the bow and the stern, so that the bow ends up with a little more than the stern. FWIW, I didn't add any rocker to the plywood version. With a little more rocker it may end up being a very loose kayak. You could always add a skeg if it gets too loose.

Mike

: I was out there Putz'in with my walrus project tonight. I set the keel in
: place, and added some rocker. I didnt like the way the flat looked, and I
: want more manuverability than I think Mike mentioned on his plywood boat.
: I added about 1" of rocker at the stern, and a little less than that
: at the bow. Besides, it goes better with the curves at the stems.

: I think it would be easier to strip this boat than it would to fit plywood
: panels. I'd do the side strip at the chine first, and bevel it to the
: bottom contour. Then do the bottom chine strip and attach it to the side.
: That will give a sturdy edge to strip the bottom in from the chines to the
: keel, without adding more stations. If I next bevel the keel strip, and
: then fill in the bottom, I wont even need cove and bead; it's all flat!
: Then I can set the sheer wherever I want it, and strip the sides any which
: way. I smell a pattern?