: John, I have had good success making sharp turns with glass by using
: multiple layers of 1.5 or 2 oz. glass.
: This is what I would do: Cut a 4" strip of the thin bias cut glass, long
: enough to cover the stem. Wet the stem with epoxy and let it set till it
: tacks, apply the glass to the tacky epoxy being sure it conforms to the
: sharp angles well. Carefully wet the glass, squeegee excess and press the
: glass into the corners. When this thin layer hardens, check for bubbles
: and cut out any you find. Then feather the edges with a scraper
: (razorblade works good).

: You are now ready for your main layer of glass. After wetout, cut the glass
: at the stems back from the stems a little, so the main glass layer does
: not cover the stem. At this point the only thing covering the sten is one
: thin layer of glass. after the main layer hardens to green stage, feather
: the edges and repeat the thin glass bias cut strips over the stem
: overlaping the main layer. I would use at least 3 more layers of the thin
: glass strips at the stems making each new layer a little narrower than the
: last so you don't have any thick edges to build up.

: I just used this multiple layers of thin glass method to cover thigh brace
: wings that I added to my cockpit. The thin glass conforms easily to all
: curves and does not pop out from sharp corners. I used 2 oz. plain weave
: glass and have also used satin weave with similar results.

: Good luck,

: Larry C.

Thanks for your suggestions Larry. I'm going to fiberglass in a few hours and I don't have any thin fiberglass, only 6 oz. so I will play this by ear and see how it goes. I will put on a coat of epoxy first on the haul and let set for about 8 hours then drape the glass and trim it and see how things look. I may be fretting for nothing but I will have all of the tools and clamps for the different ideas ready incase I have to try something new, quick.

John