Yeah, I'll look at foot room when I get the hull done. That's what I'm doing, putting the two pcs against the keel stringer, and then the two for each chine transition. Then stripping to fill in the bottom. Then I'll add the sheer strips, and fill in the sides.

I do have one mis-take already; I didnt decide to strip it until after I had set the keel strip in the 3/8" thickness the skin boat calls for. So I put a 1/4" spacer under it, and stripped the outside flush. I should have stripped the inside flush, and planed the extra off the outside. As it is, I'll have a combination of scraping and filleting along the keel on the inside. If I do it again, I'll not notch the keel out. Ah, well, live and learn. It's one advantage of strip building, to have lots of flexibility.

: I set up the forms again for a Walrus intending to strip it but took them
: down to built another design first. I was thinking that you would want to
: put the bottom and side chine strips on more or less at the same time so
: you could bevel both strips evenly to meet flat edge to edge on the stems.
: I also thought I would use some junky pine and make stringers, tack them
: to the forms and tape them as part of the mold. Then strip as much as
: possible in line with the keel.
: I think a big benefit of the Walrus either stripped or plywood will be to
: create enough room for feet and get my weight down, the floor boards seem
: too high for me to ever be comfortable.