: Greg
: I have a Delta 14" with a 1/2" blade - 10 tpi However, I would
: think this could be improved upon with less set, since I do get a surface
: needing planing.
: Greg

: I used the technique by Mark Duginski in his book "Bandsaw Basics"
: - Take a board about 6"X16" and draw a line parallel to the 16
: side. Saw through on the line until you get to the middle of the board.
: Turn off the saw, and draw a line on the table that is parallel to the
: edge of the board. Make yourself an adjustable "T" shaped fence
: and adjust it to match the angle between the line and the table edge that
: touches your belly. Clamp the fence to the table at 1/4" and away you
: go! You are not correcting the lead, but adjusting the fence to match it.
: - Scott

Well done Scott!

If I may add, I don't think I would recommend going any finer on the teeth or with less set in them. You are taking a chance of heating up the blade and also, slowing down the process. I doubt you will get rid of the rough cut, as that's the nature of the beast. In example, take your jig saw and put a fine metal cutting blade in it and try cutting some of yours material with it, and then use the wood blade on the same piece. It may be a finer cut, but will still be rough and will really slow you down. Plus, it will heat up and possibly burn your wood.

I'll have to time that process when I cut my strips on the table saw. Ha!!! Don't try going too fast as you are going to miss the fun, or set up a potential mistake or accident. Oh, of course, you added the time you spent in planing your strips, when you figured the cutting process with the B.S. uh... I mean band saw. With the table saw, I won't have to plane. They will be as smooth as the proverbial " Babies A.. ".

Rehd