I had the same problems on my Tern joints, too, and I laid some epoxy down on the joint before laying on the dry tape, applying more epoxy, letting it soak a bit, then brush-tamping and squeegeeing. I think foamy epoxy may have been the culprit, maybe from over-tamping (?) The tight weave of the cloth doesn't help, either.

If I were to do it again, I wouldn't use the mylar and weights. I had a few surprise bubbles under the tape when I took the weights off the next day. (To fix them I drilled a small hole and forced epoxy in with one of the supplied syringes.) I don't think the mylar and weight is that critial, just give it a good squeegeeing so the cloth is on the wood.

Dean

: I'm helping a friend with some local "tech support" as he's
: building an Arctic Tern and a Coho. He started with the insides of the
: butt joints, but is having a problem getting that fine-weave glass tape to
: wet out fully and disappear.

: I told him I thought he should brush the epoxy onto both sides of the tape
: before applying it to the wood to make sure it get a chance to saturate--I
: didn't think the epoxy was traveling completely through the tape, causing
: his white spots. Any other thoughts?

: Shawn