: A few days ago after I sanded the reinforcement glass along the bow, stern
: and keel I mentioned I had white spots probably caused from sanding dust
: to epoxy smearing because it was too soft or green. I put on a 2"
: keel strip of glass and after 24 hours I scraped the edges somewhat flush
: with the other glass layer. Then I used the ROS (not variable speed)to
: make a good fair match between the glasses. I had set the ROS on the boat
: and turned it on and that way it could never reach the real high speeds
: while sanding. But one time I turned it on and started to sand when it was
: reved up at high speed and it smeared the epoxy. It wouldn't wet out with
: alcohol and showed up white, but when I scraped that off it wet out OK. It
: looks like the high speed of the ROS burns or heats the epoxy and does
: make a gummy smear. When I get to the point of g;ass taping my deck to the
: haul I don't want this kind of problems on the edge of the deck because so
: far it looks pretty good. I am guessing that I should forget using the ROS
: for any sanding of the epoxy and just hand sand. Any thoughts.

: John

Use a fairing board and work through 80 and 120 where you need to even the layers. This will fair the boat and keep you from grinding through the glass, hopefully. It won't take very much time. You can use the ROS but epoxy has to be fully cured, could take a week. Scraper for the runs when it's green, sand to fair when it's cured. I fair the glass layers just before I put on the last squeeged epoxy coat when you can still see the weave pretty much everywhere. A decent sanding after that cures with the ROS, let the stuff cure, wash off the blush if it's there first. Once the epoxy is fully cured the ROS with 80 then 120 will work just fine but you go through sandpaper faster. Work outside if you can and protect yourself from the dust.
Are you using open coat aluminum oxide paper? Change it before it gets too dull. Good luck. Is this the 14 ft Auk for fishing with the cockpit side bulkheads?