: If your old oil finish is clogging and smearing it sounds like it has not
: cured properly. I'd remove it with medium steel wool and denatured
: alcohol. Then recoat the whole paddle.

I gave this a whirl last night. The steel wool and alcohol remove the oil from the surface pretty well and smoothed out the wood in the bargain. When it was done and dry, it looked much more even than before.

While I was rooting around in my painting supplies, I discovered a pint of boiled linseed oil and a some turpentine, so I decided to brew a 50/50 mix, figuring it would make a thin, deep penetrating finish (hopefully). It worked great. The finish is even once again, though several more coats will be necessary before I'm done. The linseed oil/turps mix also has a rather interesting, sweet scent, which I rather like.

: If you want to build up the finish faster than with just straight oil, you
: can get a faster build-up and better waterproof finish by mixing 50/50 oil
: and marine spar varnish. Apply just like an oil finish, again, apply with
: a rag and wipe off excess after 20 minutes. Three coats of the spar/oil
: finish will equal six coats of oil only.

I'm going to pick up some varnish on the way home tonight. I'll try mixing it with the linseed oil, per your suggestion.

One general question about oil finishing products: Do they deteriorate in the can with age? The Watco I used was several years old and the can was more than half empty. I read last night that one should avoid exposing these oils to air until you use them, as they cure through oxidation. Any thoughts on this?