I'd recommend applying one or two fill coats before you tackle the ragged edges. Fill coats will reduce the problem of trapping sanding dust in the weave. After feathering the edge (either by sanding or scraping or both), plan to apply another couple fill coats before doing the final sanding. You'll want to be able to sand everything fair without exposing the glass at the feathered edge.

If you use a scraper to feather the edge, make sure you keep it sharp (it will dull quickly on fiberglass). I've got some areas where the weave became visible after scraping and I think that happened because I burnished the exposed glass with a dull scraper. I was able to sand most of it out, but not all of it.

If the triangular raised glass areas are small, just cut them off and smooth the edges - when you tape the outside seam, you'll cover the bare spots.

Ross

: The wife took the kids to Cape Cod, so I finaly have some time to devote to
: glassing.

: I put a seal coat on the hull over the weekend.

: Last night I glassed two layers on the hull, a full size layer and chine to
: chine football shaped layer.

: This morning I added bias strips to the ends and applied a thin fill coat
: with a roller.

: My questions...

: 1) When/how do I remove the rough edge of the football shaped layer? The
: fabric frayed a little when I applied the epoxy. Do I let it set for some
: time, then plane/sand? Do I deal with it prior to it curing? Do I clean up
: this area before or after appling the remaining fill coats?

: 2) I ran a layer of waxpaper down deck/hull seam. I have a few spots along
: the seam where the glass did not quite lie flat, there are little triangle
: raised areas. How do I deal with these? Just cut/sand them down once all
: is cured? or is there a time?

: Thanx, I really feal like I don't know what I'm doing for the first time in
: this process.