: I'd recommend applying one or two fill coats before you tackle the ragged
: edges. Fill coats will reduce the problem of trapping sanding dust in the
: weave. After feathering the edge (either by sanding or scraping or both),
: plan to apply another couple fill coats before doing the final sanding.
: You'll want to be able to sand everything fair without exposing the glass
: at the feathered edge.

: If you use a scraper to feather the edge, make sure you keep it sharp (it
: will dull quickly on fiberglass). I've got some areas where the weave
: became visible after scraping and I think that happened because I
: burnished the exposed glass with a dull scraper. I was able to sand most
: of it out, but not all of it.

: If the triangular raised glass areas are small, just cut them off and smooth
: the edges - when you tape the outside seam, you'll cover the bare spots.

: Ross

I'm at about the same stage on a boat right now. I concur with Ross's approach, I have squeegeed two thin coats on after glassing and will use a fairing board with 120 or 150 to fair the edge of the glass at the chines. So I guess we will see in a few days. I wanted to have a couple fill coats on since it will need a decent sanding to bond the next coat and avoid spot and craters. I will squeegee on another coat or two later..

I have found that a sharp scraper is good on basic runs in the green stage but I've had trouble with it trying to feather glass edges, the glass strands under the epoxy are hard to cut even with a sharp scraper and it can get really messy with the epoxy green so I end up sanding later anyway. I wanted to have a fill coat on it first because it will need a sanding to bond between coats and was worried about sanding just the glass coat. I think you should worry abt cutting into the bottom layer of glass if you use a scraper too, especially with no fill.

On the next boat (isn't there always a next boat?) I'm going to try to avoid the fraying glass by letting the first layer of glass cure a bit and then using masking tape over the first layer around the outside of the football area and cutting glass with a clean edge at the tape. I think it will be much easier to fair it. This method is described in the epoxy manual from System 3. I have always found the football layer to be a pain, the cut edges fray and you get lots of fuzzies you have to pick out.