This makes sense, given the large swings in finished weight for the same length/design boat, materials play a bigger part in the outcome. Glass layup and corresponding epoxy requirements are probably the biggest factor.

Decide what you want to do with the boat, what characteristics do you want, how much extra hull bashing insurance you want..3 or 4 layers of glass on the football?? and deal with the weight you get. I chose a fairly lightweight glass coverage with 1 layer 6 oz on the hull in and out and 4 oz on the deck in and out with extra around the cockpit inside and keel strip. Had my first run-in with a barnicle covered stump this weekend and came out with only surface scratching and a little kicking my own arse.

After all, the only time weight really matters is when I'm trying to lift it back up on the car after a long paddle. Mine is 39lbs for the G-17

Paul, If I followed correctly, your method of reducing lbs per foot to quarters, hull rt,lt...deck rt,lt and estimating % of cylinder or tube makes a lot of sense. Fun to play around with while I'm supposed to be working.

: With very little difference, an 18-foot boat is going to weigh what an
: 18-foot boat weighs. You can maybe save or gain a pound or two here and
: there, but you won't find much area to lose or gain and save a lot of
: weight without radically altering the shape of the boat.

: Use 'S' glass instead of E-glass. Use less-dense boards (take a scale to the
: lumberyard). Use less-dense species of wood. Use 3/16 strips rather than
: 1/4". Use resin sparingly. Use satin glass instead of woven glass.
: Use resin sparingly. Keep acoutrements to a minimum. Don't go overboard on
: hatch or coaming design/weight. Use resin sparingly. Fill compartments
: with helium. Try vacuum-bagging.

: Oh, and watch the epoxy use!

: Shawn