while i think the idea of forming gaskets is the only way, some care should be taken. i believe that silicone is deadly on varnish and i would also presume future refinishing. past posts have testified to the difficulty of dealing w/ silicone.

so while i haven't used it, here are some ideas:

-first of all check if silicone, if not(polyurethane) you probably have more latitude.i don't know for sure.

-second,choose a produce line that has more than RED!!!!! can you acutally see a red line around his hatches. ughhh. unless other fittings match and thats the game. like theres gotta be black or clear etc. just say no!

-next mask the living heck out of the deck. you dont want ANY silicone (if thats what it is ) on it. and test it out onl some junk first for a day. try running a wetted finger around the interface to smoothe out so no extra.

-saran wrap's another release, but i bet that hairspray or pva'll be ok w/ the wax. check archives for hank vanderaa's release.

- consider the configuration of gasket you are about to form really carefully. you have myriad, myriad possibilities that could make for interesting seals. cove hatch edges that give a clean line yet also give a positive latch even when mech attachmt is gone. or in reverse where the deck edge is cove.and do you really want the gasket on the yak- is it not better on the hatch??

- and lastly try depressing the deck flange by say another 1/8 to 1/4 in for gasket consistency and when pushing down the hatch, pre-lip it so that it matches the deck edge profile absolutely perfectly(like temp glue little strips on top all around so you cant push too far)

-the other benefit of keeping the gasket on the hatch is that silicones leach out oils continually. (see those dark lines around windows - dirt in oil). so then when storing for long periods, you could keep the gasket separated slightly if you wanted.

some ideas

-mick