The best fix would be to remake the hatch. Make the ribs exactly like the deck, and go for as close to a perfect fit as you can achieve before you start sticking on gasket material.

The next best that I can think of is to modify the underside of the hatch to make it fit the contours of the deck. As in build up the low spots. Do it right and it won't make it sit any higher or weirder then it already is.

You can try more gasket material, but that usually won't work. It isn't for filling large gaps, and gaskets don't do well without side support and compression. The wider the gap you try to fill, the wider your gasket tape needs to me.

Gaskets, especially foam tape types, do not seal by being crushed to death. That's a sure way to make them leak, especally the second time you close the hatch. They work by being resiliant. You don't want any more pressure on them then the bare minimum required to just make them seal. Ideally, you want a mechanical stop to prevent you from overcrushing them.

> Just launched my Chesapeake 17 last weekend. All went well (I'll
> post pix later when I develop the film), the only problem is my hatches
> are not water tight. With the cambered deck on the Chesapeake the
> hatch cover needs to match the deck shape. Unfortunately my hatch
> covers appear a bit warped so there is not adequate compression of
> the gasket material.

> Has anyone else had this problem?

> Any easy fixes? (any good suggestions for making the hatch covers?-I
> made a jig to bend the hatch and hold the curved frame in place to
> epoxy - came out well but slightly warped)

> My gasket material is 'truck hatch gasket' - any better suggestions?
> Plus how thick and wide should the gasket material be? (multiple rings
> of thinner material or just one of 3/8' thick by 3/4' wide?)

> I'm going to have to change my hatch hold down straps (not enough
> compression with shock cord) - does everyone have good luck with webbing
> and buckles?

> Thanks for the help Mark