Pete,

I asked a similar question of Rob Macks some time ago. He was kind enough to give the detailed answer below.

Date: Tuesday, 2 January 2001, at 11:16 a.m.

: Rob,

: What is/are the difference(s) between a Greenland style and an Aleut style

: paddle? Why do you favor the Aleut style? Just curious because I'm

: building an Aleut style kayak and might just stick with the theme for

: starters, till I have time to figure out what my likes and dislikes are.

: Thanks,

: Ken

Ken

I build Aleut style kayaks, so I was interested in the drawings David Zimmerly has in his book “Qajaq” of and Aleut paddle.

There is a new edition of this book now spelled “Qayaq” available. Check David’s web site at: www.arctickayaks.com

The drawing is very small but there are measurements and sections given.

I’ve made my version of the Aleut paddle for the last 7 years.

In general the Greenland paddle has blades with a symmetric diamond shaped section progressively more flattened and

widened toward the blade tips. The blade tips are round. The blade edges flow smoothly into the loom. Length is about 86”

Most of the Greenland style paddles I’ve handled have had fairly heavy inflexible cross section which does not appeal to me. I

have not used a Greenland paddle for any length of time.

The Aleut paddle has an non-symmetric blade the power side is slightly convex changing to flat near the tips. The back of the

blade has a full length spine running to the blade tip. The blade edges have a definite angled shoulder at the transition to the

loom. Length is about 96”.

The spine on the other side of the blade, gives added strength to the blade in the forward stroke. This spine continues right

down to the pointed tip of the blade creating a beefy tip that will not break off. The spine allow the blades to be thinner

reducing weight and increasing flexibility.

The angled shoulders of the Aleut blades where they meet the shaft have several purposes. They act as drips edges to keep

water from running down the shaft. They also are reference points for grip placement. The cross section shape at this point

of the blade is very purposeful. You will notice that the shape of the blade is quite rounded on the flattened or power face side

of the blade. This allows the hands to slide from the shaft onto the blade without catching on the drip edges of the blade. At

paddling speed water does not have enough time to drip off the shoulder because of the length of the blade.

The paddle is quite flexible which is very kind to the body and joints. The flex also allows power to be loaded into the blade in

quick sprints and rolls. It is very nice to get a little kick of power at the end of a roll from power loaded with the paddle flex.

I build this paddle by gluing up a paddle blank made from northern white cedar and mahogany. I prefer this method because

it allows me to select totally clear cedar because of the smaller dimensions. I use hardwood to strengthen the paddle and add

visual interest. The placement of the hardwood on the paddle shaft is very important. The hardwood must be positioned on the

shaft so that it is parallel to the blade surface orientation. This creates an I-beam like structure that is much stronger than a

shaft made of one piece of softwood. Making a paddle of laminated pieces allows any defects in the wood to be eliminated.

By gluing up the blank I can reduce the amount of stock removal and visualize the paddle proportions sooner. Also the edges

of the blank are flat and regular, so it is easy to draw lay-out lines to guide stock removal. The finished weight of my paddle

comes in at about 32 oz.

all the best,

Rob Macks

Hope this answers your question. As well as it did mine!

Ken

: The drawing on Zimmerly's website of the MAE 593-76 includes a paddle. I'm
: not sure of reading it properly, but it seems to show a reinforcing rib
: carved into the power face of the paddle, with the tips trailing behind
: the centerline of the loom. Does anybody know whether this correct?