> This is leading me to the conclusion that a strongback and forms
> would not be a bad idea for stitch and glue building. I was intending
> to do it that way because of the modified design I intend to build
> (panel shapes will come from cardboard paterns laid out on the rigidly
> aligned forms and cut to shape, then trial fitted all together at
> once.)

You might want to take a look at the method of construction used in Ultralight Baotbuilding, by Thomas Hill.

He sets up forms and chines on a strongback, then lays panels of 3mm or 4mm plywood over them.

The chines are used for alignment and do not become part of the boat. Laying a long, narrow, panel on the frame he can trace along the chine with a pencil to simply define the shape he will cut with his bandsaw. Clamping the cut panel piece back on the chines, the chines are then used as a guide for his plane, so he can accurately finish the edges that might be a bit rough after cutting.

He does not use stitch and glue. Instead, he overlaps the panels (lapstrake construction style) and bonds the panels together with epoxy. Each joint becomes a boat-length, inch wide (approximately), 6mm or 8mm thick reinforcement. (pardon the mixed measurement units here. please.)

This is similar in size and shape to the construction of the stringers on a skin-on-frame kayak. No ribs, no wires, no holes to drill, no alignment problems, no fillets. Frequently, no fiberglass. The hulls can be finished with marine enamels or epoxy and varnish.

Since the strength comes from the construction technique, and not the fiberglass skin, you can save the cost and weight of the glass cloth and resin.

While he deals with construction of a canoe and a rowboat in the book, there is no reason similar construction methods could not be used for a kayak. Since you are thinking along the lines of using forms and chines already, you might want to see if any of his methods would merge with yours.

If you don't like the look of lapstrake construction, a few passes with a belt sander will reshape the edge of the overlapping panel so it blends into the panel under it. I'd overlap the panels a bit more than called for if I was are going to do this so the strength would be the same.

Plenty of pictures in his book. Amazon.com has it at a discount.

Paul Jacobson