> In order to paddle comfortably, yet still design a stable, comfortable
> triple (or Quad), what is the maximum beam and height (keel to peak
> of depth) that is practical? I'm thinking I'm going to expand my stitch
> and glue drawing that I've been fooling with into a large, open cockpit
> family boat for flat water in protected environment near shore. I'd
> like to eventually carry two adults, two toddlers, and a 60 lb dog
> w/ picnic stuff, so I'd like to go wide and low, but still have adequate
> freeboard.

Check out this book: Strippers Guide to Canoe Building by David Hazen It is an oldie but goodie, with (included at no extra charge) full size plans for several canoes AND kayaks.

The frames can be respaced to create longer boats (within reason).

He has a plan for creating a cloth deck for canoes. Very simple way to keep out some of he waves.

A 16 foot canoe holds about 600 pounds. A 18 footer holds about 900. Add up the weights of the adults, toddlers, and gear then add 60 for the dog. His kayaks hold about 500 pounds.

If the family weighs more than the capacity of the boat, look at the Guide Canoe in Gil Gilpatricks book. I think he has a 20 to 22 footer with a 45 inch beam that holds around 3000 pounds. It is bigger than most boats, but i believe he says it can hold a moose.

Haszen and Gilpatrick are of the opinion that wind problems in a canoe are related to the height of the bow and stern. They both have designs that have relatively low ends, to minimize the sail effect. The downside is the possibility of waves entering the boat. Thus the suggestion to look at Hazen's plan for an easily removeable cloth deck.

Or, you could build 2 boats.

I'd forget trying to build a true pirogue, unless you are in a big hurry to get something on the water. They are fast to build. There are some hard chined canoes that are not much more difficult to build, and have better handling and look nicer. Paul Jacobson