> I still don't know why on earth the vendor/manufacturer would be saying
> silicone caulk. Silicone is *not* a suitable structural caulk. It's one of
> the weakest on the market. Suitable only for sealing up the gap between a
> counter top and edge at resturants and such. It barely does the job on
> aquariums. You can rub silicone caulk off with your thumb!

> I would use the 5200, though there is one other that's perhaps better. I
> can't remember what it is, and I don't have my catalogs here to look it
> up. Something like 100 I believe. In any case, reading the label will tell
> you how it works. If you've got a big boating store near you, they'll be
> even more helpfull at making sure 5200 is the best, or if it's second
> best.

> I would *not* do the multi-layers your engineering friend suggested.
> That's a road to disaster. You'd get cured layers of lumpy caulk to try
> bonding to instead of smooth plastic. Coat the joining surfaces with the
> 5200, clamp/tape/whatever them together, let it cure. If you can get to
> the inside seam, run a bead there as well. To give you an idea of just how
> strong 5200 is, it is the normal method of fastening splashwells onto the
> transom of power boats. You know, those splash wells people stand in all
> the time, and throw gas can in and such.

Nolan- Thanks for the info re multi-layering and 5200 or 100 something marine caulking. I'm going to a marine supply place today or tomorrow. When I talked to the manufacturer he told me he had used the silicone on several hundred kayaks with no problem. The reason I asked him about it was because the silicone package stated "not for underwater use" - he still said "no problem" - Let you know how this turns out. Alice