> I've already built Nicks S&G kayak and like it very much.

Hope you sent Nick a picture. We would all like to see your results.

> It's a good
> boat and so cheap to build ( if you use lauan) that I want to build
> another one so I can paddel with a friend. Another reason is I would like
> to make this one a little lighter.

So who gets the new, lighter one? You, or the friend?

> I've learned alot by building this one,
> so I'm sure it would be easy to shed a few pounds. My question goes to
> those how built one or have ideas to improve on Nicks kayak.

> Mine was built with 1/8 inch lauan with one 6oz cloth on top and two on
> the bottom.

George Roberts posts have convinced me that two layers of 3 ounce cloth would be as good or better than a single layer of 6 ounce. The fabric might be a bit more expensive as you'll need almost twice the yardage, but the resin will be the same, so the weight should be the same.

I assume you put a second layer of 6 ounce cloth on the bottom for scratch resistance. 3 layers of 3 ounce cloth would be lighter than 2 layers of 6 ounce cloth, slightly thinner, a bit lighter, and should have as good or better resistance to scrapes. For the deck, most people say a single layer of 4 ounce cloth works well. This would be 2/3 the weight. The only criticisms to this seem to center around the area near your knees. Cover just that area with two layers of 3 ounce or two of 4 ounce cloth. You are putting in a square about 2 by 2 feet, not double covering the entire deck so you'll still be ahead in weight reduction.

> The only place there is fiberglass inside the kayak are at the
> seems and in the seat area. To join the panels no scarf joints were used,
> just but joints covered with a 3 inch wide strip on the inside. Bulkheads
> are 1 inch blue foam board covered with 2 layers of 6oz cloth on both
> sides.

You could probably go with thinner layers of fiberglass here, too. Basically you are just waterproofing the foam, right? A single layer of 3 ounce fabric on front and back, using the scraps from the hull and deck, should be sufficient. If the bulkheads are for structural strength, not for creating trapped flotation space, why not eliminate them and just use a thwart. Look at how canoes are braced. A single piece of 1x2 in the same location as your bulkhead would provide structural strength to a kayak hull just as a thwart does for a canoe. It is covered by the deck, so no one sees it, but give it a couple coats of epoxy to seal it before you attach the deck. Use flotation bags for flotation. The thwart will be convenient to tie them in.

> A retractable skeg was also instaled to help my bad paddeling. This
> boat is very solid for the use I put it through.

Did you put this in after trying out the boat? If you can get along without it, removing it will save some weight.

> The new one will be 1 inch higher to get more foot room.

Are you going to raise the entire side wall height, or just the forward area of the cockpit? If you do the latter you'll use less material, and save some weight.

> Any changes you have made to improve the deseign would be welcome.

I'm convinced there should be a way to cut all the pieces from just three sheets of material, but I haven't got the exact cutting plan to do this. Your idea for butt joints may be what I need.

Just some thoughts. Congrats on the last boat, and best of luck on your new project. By the way. How long did the first one take to make.

Paul Jacobson