Mark,

> 1) The instructions say to mix equal parts, stir well, then wait for one
> hour before applying. This still allows for a thre hour pot life. Why the
> wait?

Each manufacturer has, presumably through product research and development, determined the best applications for their particular product. It is usually wise to follow their directions to the letter, especially with epoxies. Mixing is very critical, as is the ratio of hardener and resin.

> 2) It says to brush or spray on, do not use a roller. Why? It seems like I
> could get a nice finish with a good roller, as I have with enamel in the
> past. Is it bubbles from the roller that drives this?

You are correct in guessing that increased bubbling is the reason for not using a roller. Bubbles can be effectively eliminated by using a propane torch, passing the flame quickly over the freshly applied epoxy, thereby warming and reducing the surface viscosity and allowing the bubbles to expand and "pop".

> 3) Even by moving the brush slowly and carefully, some bubbles occur. They
> are visible as we apply the epoxy (it's consistency is about like a good
> enamel paint). Temp is not changing, the bubbles aren't forming after
> brushing on.

Post brushing bubbles are only a problem with unsealed porous sub-straights.

> 4) There were some fish eyes where the old silicone sealant was. The tub
> was cleaned with 30% HCL, and still the slicone seems to have left some
> residue. The fisheyes were cleaned with lacquer thinner after the first
> coat of epoxy cured, and that seems to have fixed most of the fish eyes.
> What is the best solvent to remove silicone?

Fisheyes are a result of surface tension. Surface prep is critical regardless of the finish material being used. The HCL solution is ok for removing inorganic stains, (Wink stain remover, [a commercial phosphoric acid solution and available at most grocery stores], is perhaps a better choice), but will have little or no effect on silicon. Silicon is tough to get past and has haunted everyone trying to finish over or around a surface that has been contaminated by it.

First, try to remove the silicon mechanically. Scraping, sanding, etc. "Wash" the area with acetone and clean un-dyed rags. Scrub with soap and water, rinse well, and clean again with denatured alcohol and clean rags. I use denatured alcohol as my final wipe down prior to applying ALL finishes and with ALL finishing materials.

> 5) After cure, there are some mild brush streaks. Should I attempt to wet
> sand and rub / polish to even out the surface? Will I be able to use
> polishing compound to get a high gloss finish?

Epoxy does not cure to a hardness sufficient to polish. Sand out imperfections and re-coat. There probably is no "perfect" final finish with epoxy. When sanding or other wise removing surface blemishes, do it wet! Mechanical scrubbing will embed contaminates into the epoxy surface if done dry. It really isn't even necessary to go beyond 340 grit if you are re-coating.

> Thanks for any help. I know this isn't a boat, but the info may be usefull
> to kayak builders, and I know most of you guys enjoy a challenge.

If you need further assistance, give me shout.

Regards,

Capt Patrick McCrary

USA Marine Group