I do an endpour for a couple reasons. The upswept ends of my designs are difficult to reach into to tape the interior seam, and I like to mount carrying toggles by drilling through the endpour. If you can get tape into the ends, you definitly do not need the endpour. You may not even need it if you can't get tape into the end. Assuming you are taping the exterior of the seam, that may be enough. It is stronger to tape inside and out, but how strong is really necessary. While I would not eliminate interior tape next to the cockpit and as far as I can easily get into the ends, if I were trying to build a really light boat and was going to use it gently, I would not worry about the last 12 inches at either end.

I have seen one of my boats go bow first right through the side of another boat with no damage to mine. Whether the lack of damage to mine can be attributed to the endpour, I can not say, but my brother had to spend a couple weeks fixing his boat while I could keep paddling. (BTW, I was not paddling my boat at the time)

As far as using the endpour to mount the carrying toggle. I have seen handles rip off boats that just had them screwed down. That problem will not occur if you drill through the endpour.

My endpour is usually only about 4" long and consists of about 1 cup of resin with microballoons added to make about 1 pint of dookie schmutz.

: There was a thread that indicated that even with good taping and end pour is desirable.

: I know that CLC did not have an end pour in the past but does now. I know that Nick does has end pour.

: I have been using 1.5oz of thick epoxy and tape on the interior of the keel to hold the keel together and epoxy and tape on the hull to deck seams (inside and out).

: I can only guess that the end pour might prevent holeing of the hear bow area.

• GK