>

> If you go with the multi-layered fabric method for repair, then when the
> time comes to redo the hull you`ll be able to see how well that portion
> has held up. If it suits you, then redo the whole hull with 3 layers of 2
> to 3 ounce material at that time. The resin cost for three layers of 2
> ounce fabric should be the same as for one layer of 6 ounce clath, but the
> fabric itself will be more expensive as you must buy more yards of it. You
> should have a few years to save your pennies for the additional costs.

> The patched area may be a different color (probably lighter) than the rest
> of the boat. If this patch is above the water line, or in a perticularly
> visible spot, consider turning it into an art element. If you use the
> lighter color of the mostly rectangular area as a back ground, you can
> make a design out of a dark-colored wood veneer and stick the design in
> that area. It will look like a picture frame surrounding your art, and
> could be visually striking.

> Hope this helps Paul Jacobson

Paul,

I took your advice and the repair came out great. So good that I thought I would be disappointed w/ the looks of the rest of the boat. So, I removed (scraped, chisled, sanded) all of the epoxy (poly?), and fiberglass (95% sofar) off the hull and am going to redo from scratch. Since I hav'nt done this before I guess I'm going to have to find a book while I order the glass and epoxy so I can understand the finer steps of glassing.

I used West system w/ 207 hardner for the repair. It worked great. Any comments on a particular brand a I'm going to have to buy some(gallon?)?.It Looked as if there were three layers of glass on the bottom w/ one on the sides, and the ends were taped. I dont know what weight glass was used. I havn't sanded yet,what should I fill a couple of small voids (low spots) from removing the epoxy?