: I currently have a Cormorant hull wired up

: I plan on doing the inside first as it appears easier to get it complete
: before messing with filling and rounding the seams.

Steve, good choice of boat :-) I didn't use full forms on my Cormorant,
just a spreader. I could have glassed with more spreaders (or even full
forms) in place, because I did it in three sections. First, I marked where
the two bulkheads would go. I put a single staple through each side panel,
close to the sheer, into a piece of wood each side, and then clamped these
two pieces of wood to a cross piece to keep the sheer spread. You can see
this in the photo. What isn't obvious is that the two uprights are also
clamped to a similar cross piece underneath.

Then, I glassed the cockpit section, using 6 oz glass, for more abrasion
resistance where I would be getting in and out. I took the glass slightly
beyond the bulkhead locations. This is the stage you can see in the pic.

Then I glassed inside the bow and stern with 4 oz glass, again taking the
glass beyond the bulkhead positions (so there is an extra layer of glass
just where the bulkheads will fit).

Removing the staples later left a tiny gap in the glass, but this was in
a place which would be covered by the glass tape I used to join hull and
deck.

I found that even when just wired up, I couldn't change the shape of the
boat much, except by spreading or squeezing the centre, so I can't see
that a full form would help much. But I _could_ have used full forms in
each section that I was not glassing at any particular stage.

Incidentally, if this is your first time glassing, you might find that
this glassing-by-sections approach makes for smaller and less intimidating
jobs, too.

Andy