: Steve, good choice of boat :-) I didn't use full forms on my Cormorant,
: just a spreader. I could have glassed with more spreaders (or even full
: forms) in place, because I did it in three sections. First, I marked where
: the two bulkheads would go. I put a single staple through each side panel,
: close to the sheer, into a piece of wood each side, and then clamped these
: two pieces of wood to a cross piece to keep the sheer spread. You can see
: this in the photo. What isn't obvious is that the two uprights are also
: clamped to a similar cross piece underneath.

: Then, I glassed the cockpit section, using 6 oz glass, for more abrasion
: resistance where I would be getting in and out. I took the glass slightly
: beyond the bulkhead locations. This is the stage you can see in the pic.

: Then I glassed inside the bow and stern with 4 oz glass, again taking the
: glass beyond the bulkhead positions (so there is an extra layer of glass
: just where the bulkheads will fit).

: Removing the staples later left a tiny gap in the glass, but this was in
: a place which would be covered by the glass tape I used to join hull and
: deck.

: I found that even when just wired up, I couldn't change the shape of the
: boat much, except by spreading or squeezing the centre, so I can't see
: that a full form would help much. But I _could_ have used full forms in
: each section that I was not glassing at any particular stage.

: Incidentally, if this is your first time glassing, you might find that
: this glassing-by-sections approach makes for smaller and less intimidating
: jobs, too.

: Andy

I did similar to Andy. However, I epoxied small strips of glass between the wires prior to glassing. The joints had fillets previously added. After the epoxy set, I pulled the wires. Next time, I won't bother with the glass strips. The fillets are enough to hold the shape. I did use a stretcher and a "form" to hold the hull to the correct deadrise while I glassed the hull in sections.