Wouldn't having the graphite epoxy backed by the regular epoxy/glass/wood create a different structure than just a free sheet of graphite epoxy plastic? When I've glassed surfaces and cut away trim, the epoxy saturated cloth cured is not very strong alone. It can be ripped in your hand.

Anyway, it was a thought to try to help. I had the graphite from my Waters Dancing boat kit, but opted not to use it in favor of a heavier layup (I probably went overboard on that). I am again thinking about using the graphite on the SK S&G.

The reasoning I heard was that raw epoxy/varnish or paint tends to "grab" on rocks and other rough stuff, while the graphited epoxy tends to slip off lessening the chance of "ripping" the epoxy and cloth.

But again, that's why I post and read here, lots of folks out there have a great deal more experience. I'm just a newbie, but I want to learn the whys and wherefores.

: Imagine a thick graphite epoxy coat painted onto a sheet of plastic,maybe
: .25mm,,then make a wet-out piece of 3.25oz tight weave e-glass on another
: sheet of plastic, maybe .5mm. For a football area the glass/epoxy will
: weigh somewhere around 8oz and the epoxy around 3-6oz.
: Ok,,after both are cured pick them up off the plastic. The sheet of
: graphite/epoxy will be a sheet of plastic that can be broken up in your
: hands. The tightweave glass won't. Same thing happens on the bottom of
: your kayak with regards to impact wear. The graphite will be slippery but
: if you need durability to scraping IMPACTS that can ding through fill
: coats then it'll take THICK fill coats,,at that point why not put some
: glass in that thick coat and have actual protection against scraping
: IMPACTS that can leave a ding?