Thanks for the input -

Once I've smoothed some of the curves I'm still unhappy with, I was going to print the design out full-size on mylar, and overlay that on my deck. You're right - this will definitely help me figure out what size to make the ends, and perhaps even a few of the flames 1-2 feet from each end may pose a problem.

Anyone know a good source for veneer? I'd consider an overlay instead of an inlay.

To answer a few earlier questions - the problems with oak and epoxy have been discussed quite a few times over the last few months, and no-one that did any testing had any problems, so I'm hoping for the best.

As far as the color difference with pine and oak, I'm very pleased with the contrast. The link below shows the contrast on my sheer strip (you can't really see the hull centerline strip), and this is on un-glassed wood, so it should contrast even better once glassed.

Thanks for all your input, everyone!

: (don't know if you've done it)

: as this pattern is to related to the simple strong lines of a yak, it would
: be a good idea to print out your pattern at some easy scale and
: superimpose it on a dwg/pic of a yak and the cockpit/recess layout.

: that may give you some better cues on how/whether the pattern should stay the
: same width all along the changing boatwidth, how/where it starts/ends, and
: also how it resolves/ends/splays/cuts at and from the cockpit/recess etc.

: and as a construction method, i would strongly consider double cutting the
: veneer by hand right on the yak. then all the cuts will be perfect, tight
: and tracing is eliminated. at the very least maybe you can just score the
: wood surface with your machine (to get the pattern) and then use that as a
: blade guide for the double cutting.

: quite a few pple here have used onlays (without inlaying) with good effect.
: check the archives to see if that is acceptable enough and then all winter
: can be used for that 2nd yak.