: I have read a lot of the responses as to how much epoxy one mixes when
: glassing their kayaks but I have not seen any comments on the sequence of
: application of these smaller batches. If you start with a 1/2 cup of epoxy
: and spread it out you have covered what amount of the surface and defined
: what perimeter of the wetted area?

: My question. If you started at one end and along one side of the keel you
: have 2 working edges that are hardening after the application of the first
: batch of epoxy, one across the keel and one towards the far end of the
: kayak. If you started in the middle of the kayak you have defined 3 edges.
: If you continue applying epoxy along one side of the kayak towards the
: rear what happens to the epoxy along the keel in the area of the first
: batch? Will it harden to a point you can not blend in the epoxy when you
: apply it to the other side of the kayak. I guess I am asking is there a
: difference between working time that applies to spreading epoxy and
: working time that allows you to establish a good knitting between
: different areas of application.

: What I envision along any edge that you have left stand for some period of
: time is either a feather edge or a bump of fiberglass that has hardened.
: If you drag out the epoxy along this edge to insure a smooth edge you
: would starve some of the glass along this edge, if you leave the edge with
: enough epoxy to insure saturation right up to the edge you would produce a
: bump along that edge.

Using the methods to keep resin thin for a long time as
I outline on my "Transparent Glass Lay-up" page, allows
all the time I need to work with the resin without the slightest
concern for the resin setting up.

I start my wet-out in the center of the hull or deck and apply the resin
with a roller toward the stem. Roll on the bias (diagonal) of the cloth to
smooth out any wrinkles. If you start at one end you will be pushing any
wrinkles the whole length of the boat. Then go back to the middle and work
toward the other stem. Then squeegee the excess resin off the first half and
then the other half.

I use squeegees cut from plastic milk cartons. This is stiff enough to remove
resin but not so stiff it will starve the glass or move glass.

All the best,
Rob