: A table saw, though likely the better option, is not the only way. I have cut
: the slot using a hand saw. A tiricky cut to be sure, but not impossible.
: It was done before the paddle had been shaped so it was still pretty
: square on the end.
: Cheers,
: Bryan
Using thickened epoxy you don't need the slot.
Whole lot easier to just glue on the tip. White oak or purpleheart would be the ideal, both are very tough woods with interlocked grain and natural resistance to rot if the coating is worn off. Both will need roughened up prior to using the epoxy and scrubbed with acetone (scotch brite pad) also before epoxy as they both have natural oils that epoxy doesn't like.
Bill H.
Messages In This Thread
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *LINK*
jeffrey -- 9/8/2007, 9:42 pm- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *Pic*
Dave Houser -- 9/10/2007, 10:09 pm- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
jeffrey -- 9/11/2007, 12:46 am- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *Pic*
Dave Houser -- 9/11/2007, 1:16 am
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *Pic*
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
Pawistik -- 9/10/2007, 1:44 am- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
Bill Hamm -- 9/12/2007, 4:45 am- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *LINK* *Pic*
pawistik -- 9/12/2007, 4:42 pm- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
Bill Hamm -- 9/16/2007, 3:56 am
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *LINK* *Pic*
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
Scott Baxter -- 9/9/2007, 9:40 am- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
Bill Hamm -- 9/9/2007, 1:55 am - Re: Paddle: Tip Protection
- Re: Paddle: Tip Protection *Pic*