My suggestions relate to FRP generally, like kayaks, sailboats, motorboats, car parts, trailer parts, windsurfer parts, bike parts, camera parts, various prototypes, brackets, and custom tools. I use mostly carbon fiber these days; if you use the right weave it is great to work with. I'm assuming some readers of this site will use their glassing skills for other projects once they realize they can build nearly anything using these materials and techniques... so I try to include a useful factoid or three with each post.... Whenever you are glassing over wood or foam, the heat generated by the curing resin will seem greater than normal due to the insulating value of the wood/foam, so things will happen much faster. Glassing over a room-temperature chunk of 1/4" steel will have the opposite effect. One thing I have not made is helicopter parts; do we have any readers to chime in on whatever their state-of-the-art might be?

: I'm answering a question related to the way we build strippers and
: glass a S&G boat. More than two layers of glass is overkill and excess
: weight.

: My goal is a totally transparent, light-weight and strong lay-up for a
: stripper canoe
: or kayak. This will work for a S&G boat also.

: If you are using six layers of glass you are doing something totally
: different than I
: am, so the person considering your advice needs to be aware of that.

: The bottom line of the Gougeon Brothers research was that mulitpul layers of
: glass, wet-out at the same time swell and absorb much more resin than single
: layers.

: A finned roller is not useful and not needed if my glassing suggestions are
: followed.

: Not needed, so you don't need to go through this.

: The techniques you suggest remind me of past days when I worked with
: polyester resin and fiberglass mat. A finned roller is needed in this
: application.

: Rob